Carpet Python Care Guide

Carpet pythons are one of the larger pythons, and have a number of different subspecies found all over Australia in shrublands, bush and rainforests. Although they come in different morphs (colour variations), their husbandry guidelines are usually very similar.

Here at Nick’s, we have Caramel Coastal Carpet Pythons, Bredli Carpet Python, Jungle Python and Albino Darwin Pythons.

Reptiles themselves can be a large commitment with their care, and with just how long they can live. The average python lifespan can be up to 30 years in captivity.

The average length of an adult carpet python is 2 – 3 metres, but large females can reach over 3 – 3.5 metres.

At Nick’s we mostly have young pythons available, however it’s important to consider what they will require when they’re fully grown.

As previously discussed, these larger pythons grow up to 3.5 metres long.
As they are large, heavy bodied semi-arboreal snakes, it’s imperative to provide them with an enclosure that has adequate height to allow them to climb.

There are different kinds of enclosures (glass tanks, plastic bins, snake racks and decked out wooden vivariums). We follow the recommendation of an enclosure of 1200mm x 600mm x 600mm as the minimum for a fully grown carpet python. Extra height is always a bonus for your carpet pythons.

Each different style of enclosure has it’s benefits and disadvantages. When choosing a material, take into consideration where the enclosure may be (e.g. foot traffic, light exposure, ventilation, escape proof lids, low height/high height). Another important consideration is the heating aspect, glass tanks may not hold the heat as well as others (so the right balance of heat exposure is encouraged), and it’s a good idea to make sure you try cover the enclosure with plenty of greenery.

You can shop our full range of vivariums and terrariums here.

You can get creative when setting up their tank enclosures trying to replicate their outdoor habitat. In captivity, you can replicate a bioactive substrate or have an absorbant substrate such as coco fibre, aspen or kitty litter.

At Nick’s we have a wide range of substrate, ornaments like hides and greenery to help your snake feel secure in their environment.

Carpet pythons are are metaturnal species (meaning they are active during the day and night) so it’s imperative to provide some lighting for your snake to stimulate a ‘day and night’ cycle. You can purchase a cheap timer from bunnings, to have the lights running for approximately 10-12 hours each day. Python’s also benefit from short periods of access to unfiltered, natural light outdoors.

Ultraviolet light (UV) is not as essential to these pythons as it is to other species of reptile. However, there have been proven a number of positive benefits to a python’s health by providing them with UV lighting. A 5.0 UVB tube or compact globe is an ideal source of artificial UV light, and can be found at Nick’s Pet Needs.

In the wild, carpet pythons are opportunistic ambush predators who will usually prey upon a variety of different animals including rodents, birds, possums and even bats.

In captivity, it’s important to make sure they’re getting enough nutrition.
Readily available at Nick’s Pet Needs are commercially bred frozen mice and rats.

A juvenile python (most commonly sold here at Nick’s) should be fed an appropriate sized mouse once a week. Adult pythons can be fed a larger mouse or small rat every 2 – 3 weeks.

To thaw your mouse, place the food item into a zip lock bag a have in the fridge throughout the day. To then warm it up for your snake, place the zip lock bag in hot water to warm the mouse. Some keepers prefer to put the mouse directly into the water before offering to their snake to encourage extra hydration.

Feeding live food to your python is not recommended as it poses many risks to your snake (injury caused by prey and risk of diseases).

It is also good practice to keep a record book of when a python eats, what sized food item it takes as well as when it’s last shed was.

If you’re stuck on what size mouse/rat you should be feeding your snake, a good rule of thumb is nothing greater then 1.5 x the width of the LARGEST part of their body, and ensure there is a bulge after their meal. If your python goes to curl up in a warm spot, you have a good size mouse for now. A larger meal is usually better for digestion opposed to two smaller ones.

Below is a helpful guide to show the appropriate food size for your snake.

When it comes to water for your python, it’s important to keep on top of the maintenance to avoid accumulating bacteria.

Your water bowl should be big enough for your snake to soak in, and the water should be replaced daily with the bowl scrubbed weekly.

The placement of your bowl is recommended to be on the cooler side of the enclosure to avoid evaporating too quickly.

When you first bring your snake home, it’s normal for them to be quite shy and flighty. You’re new, their enclosure home is new and their routine may be new.

We follow the recommendation of letting them settle for a week before handling.
After a week of them arriving home, it’s a good idea to try offer their first meal. If successful, you will then wait at LEAST 24 hours before handling.

Adult mites can live up to 40 days, and lay up to 20 eggs at a time.
In the captive environment, infestations spread easily between enclosures and the parasite can be very difficult to eradicate from collections of animals.

Once you have identified a positive infestation of snake mites, both the snake and their enclosure must be effectively treated for eradication of the parasite. Temperatures above 50 C and humidity below 50% will kill mite stages. Mites can be easily drowned, however eggs may survive submersion.

The most effective combination of treatments includes:

• Isolation and treatment of affected reptiles in a simple environment (repeat treatment may be required to break the mite life cycle). You can place your snake in an appropriate size sistema lockable lid tub with drilled air holes (or new temporary enclosure), paper towel substrate, a new hide and water bowl. Allow your snake to soak in water to kill off some mites. Monitor your snake for any decline in health.

• Cleaning and treatment of environment including all enclosure furnishings and substrates, and the environment outside the enclosure. This can be difficult if you have a bioactive enclosure – all substrates will need to be discarded and replaced.

Prevention is always the best treatment, we have a mite insecticide spray available to assist with the prevention of mites.
 

Respiratory Infection

Like many reptiles, snakes are subject to respiratory infections. These are commonly caused by environments that are too humid causing bacteria blooms.

Should you notice some of the following symptoms, it’s important to book in with your exotic vet to start a course of antibiotics:

– Excess mucus in their mouth
– Nasal discharge
– Lethargy
– Loss of appetite
– Wheezing or ‘gurgling’ sounds
– Swollen throat

As mentioned above, prevention is always the best treatment. Keep their enclosure clean, provide lots of ventilation and ensure to monitor their humidity. Carpet pythons like humidity around the 50 – 60%.